Day 8, Friday July 4

Today the feet are truly sore with over 20,000 steps yesterday. So mainly a rest day to prepare for the evening out at Epicure at the Bristol Hotel, three Michelin stars and very well reviewed almost everywhere.

Once a trip, if there is somewhere suitable, we like to plan for a truly stupendous meal. We know it will be expensive but we are not otherwise big spenders apart from our trips. We had done some research and this time Epicure was the pick.

Just the surroundings are a hint that this might be a different district than is usual . The building down the street is the Elysee Palace, home of the French President. Guards in pretty white uniforms with gold braid staff the entrances to his place. The nearby shops have familiar names, but not ones we patronise, Caron, Valentino, Sotheby’s …hmm! 

The hotel itself drips with flowers, marble foyers are polished and decorated, chandeliers and floral arrangements are effortlessly chic and the dining room is delightfully light and airy, opening on a garden and a trelliage. The staff are professionally dressed and well versed at putting guests at ease, so that much of the evening is accompanied by laughter and a lighthearted air.

I was amused but also somewhat annoyed by the sexist hangover of providing the lady with a menu without prices. In this day it is as likely to be me footing the bill as Nick. It is anachronistic. That was truly the only “down” note in the evening.

For me, ravioli filled with artichoke, truffle and foie gras on a checkerboard of truffled jus and a creamy foam; pigeon breast served with a crisp roll of the leg and bitter endive and a cherry dessert that was a masterpiece of syrupy warn cherries and pistachio, a cherry sorbet and a toffee “cherry” filled with pistachio mousse. For Nick white asparagus and pea soup, sole and “Precious Chocolate”, the dessert a tube of chocolate filled with chocolate mousse and liquor, surmounted by a gold covered ice cream and the whole encased in a lacy sphere of chocolate. More or less dessert heaven for Nick and, he reported, not at all too rich. (Do click on the pictures for bigger sizes)

These names do nothing to describe the food. The presentation was imaginative and original; the tastes were different, layered with different flavours and about as far from meat and two veg as food is likely to get, but not odd or strange nor really requiring a specialist’s palate. Anyone could have ordered from the menu and been happy. Maybe not everyone would have cared to try pigeon cooked rosy, but they would have enjoyed the fish or chicken.

There were several little offerings while considering the menu and waiting for the food. There was an array of different breads and two types of butter. An amazing cheese trolley. A pretty sorbet before the desserts. A sphere of jelly encasing a liquid to be taken in one mouthful. And just when you thought it was all over, the mirrored cabinet with macarons and chocolates.

Nicoise salad in minature

Real gold on top

Service and presentation of the food was formal with silver cloches being removed in unison, but with a smile and a small joke perhaps. There were 15 floor staff for 46 people so you wanted for nothing. Some parts of the main course were served on a separate plate, such as additional sauce or the accompaniment to the pigeon, which I found a pretty touch. I did think that changing the napkins several times was a bit OTT, but I can live with that. And of course a stool for madame’s handbag. Heaven forbid that it should touch the ground.

The wine menu was large. We decided on an area (Chablis) and the sommelier helped us choose the wine, (flinty) offering several at different price points. We trusted them to match a wine to our desserts and were happily surprised by the choices.

I was bold enough to request a copy of the menu from the Maitre d’, who readily agreed and came back with a smaller version tied up with a tasseled cord. He then suggested I meet the chef and have it signed, so I got to visit the kitchen and see some of the 20 people that prepare a meal for only 46 guests each night. And meet the chef responsible, Eric Frechon

Some of the menu. Click to enlarge

http://www.lebristolparis.com/eng/restaurants-and-bars/epicure/
In short, a most agreeable dinner lasting about 2.5 hours; quite possibly the best ever from our few exceptional dinners.

Dijon June 22–25, 2014

Lyon to Dijon via Cluny Abbey today. I have a fondness for the Benedictine abbeys after seeing several in Italy including Monte Cassino where Benedict wrote his Rule, and wanted to see this French mother house, even if there was not a lot left of the original 10th century building.

The current site is quite vast and the entrance from local parking annoyingly signposted so we walked quite some distance before finding tickets. A transept and tower of the original church remain and give an inkling of the size and magnificence of the building and the old granary building, now used as an exhibition hall, has a magnificent boat hull type roof and is a huge space. The grounds are beautifully manicured around the 18th century cloisters. Really most of the place was destroyed during the French Revolution, but it was good to visit.

18th C Cluny	One  chapel remaining	The beautiful roof
Fragments	Capital	Supporting character

On to Dijon and a return to Coco’s delightful “My Home in Dijon” and her warm welcome. It didn’t take us long to settle in and take a quick wander round the medieval parts of the town. The next day was set apart for visiting the Musee des Beaux Arts which was closed on our last visit. This is a truly magnificent museum which includes several important bequests from donors and also the extraordinary tombs of the Dukes of Bourgogne. These remain painted and gilded and lie in state in the grand chamber of the Guards Room, supported on marble arcades which house the figures of mourners in amazing detail.

The beautiful tombs	May angels attend you
The mourners

We were very impressed with the exceptional altarpieces with intricate carvings of scenes from the life of Christ and his crucifixion, and some delightful, fresh faces in paintings from so long ago.

Detailed altarpiece

St Michael

The sculptor Pompon was born in Dijon and there was a room dedicated to his art, including other sculptures apart from his famous Polar bear (Musee D’Orsay). His spare, economical lines are very expressive. I was rather tempted to purchase a small copy of either the polar bear or the eagle but in the end didn’t.

We revisited the church of Notre Dame as well, a gothic jewel with beautiful stained glass, a very ancient statue of the Virgin and a carved devil face between the doors, maybe a reminder to the faithful as they left church.

Devil face

Virgin

 

The outside is decorated with more gargoyles than was strictly necessary and some interesting ones at that, interspersed with floral motifs usually, but once by something which appeared to be a murder scene. The profile of the facade with three rows of gargoyles is unusual.

What’s with this murder scene?

Next day a visit to the market hall, designed by Eiffel to wander among the excellent fruit and vegetables, the meat displays and even the general market in the streets outside. Markets are so enjoyable in France. So we bought bread and an agreeable looking terrine, some fresh raspberries and went home for lunch.

Apricots	White asparagus
The cast iron market hall	Horse meat

Later in the day we explored the Mangin museum nearby with the private art collection in the hotel particulier of a brother and sister. Lovely panelled rooms and a minor but extensive personal art collection. This was their home, but I couldn’t imagine living there overwhelmed by so many paintings and volumes of furniture.

That night we dined at Le Pre aux Clercs in the square. A lovely setting on the place itself as the sun set and the fountains played. The restaurant has one Michelin star but to me was rather faded glories. Yes, there were little extras but the amuse bouche was stodgy and unidentifiable, the mains we ordered were of very different quantities of food, my cheese dish echoed the tastes of the risotto I had just eaten (dried tomatoes) and Nick’s dessert of a saffron pear with chocolate cone was heavy and clumsy in execution. I have to say that my dessert of a nut and chocolate log was very pretty, tasty and cute, looking a little like a bug with long feelers and being a great mix of crunch and creme. Really, though, the place should do better at the price.

The beautiful setting

Rabbit loin on tomato risotto

My cute bug dessert

While we were sitting four rows of tables back in the outdoor area, I was reminded how easily things can be stolen. We watched a “petition lady” approach diners in the front row and get shooed away by the waiters. Then, almost at my elbow, I heard a waiter confronting another woman who was making a beeline for me with my purse and camera on the table. Nothing lost, but the distraction technique almost worked. I expected it in Paris, but not Dijon.

Next morning Coco came and assisted us with our luggage. Stairs really are getting too much for us these days.